Arriving late afternoon to La Lancha, the sky had been an ominous grey threatening to downpour at any moment. Light trickles punctuated the evening, but by dinner the skies were clear. We went to bed listening to the light mist spray across our windows. My dreams were vivid and turbulent, matching the building energy in the air. Howler monkeys whined softly somewhere in the distance, while the wind picked up, extinguishing the low flicker of the candles outside. A gecko scurried across the roof, an insect buzzed somewhere above, the overhead fan clicked in a slow rhythm. In a half conscious daze I heard the rain pick up, turning from a light trickle to a full force downpour. As I began to slip back into unconsciousness, letting the sound of rain falling on our thatched roof lull me back to sleep, a thunder clap, louder than I’ve ever heard enveloped the entire night. All other sounds muted, it sounded as if something had crashed directly into our room. Startled and dazed I braced as if the roof might be collapsing. But nothing happened. Just the sound of rain once again. It felt surreal, and I wasn’t sure it had actually happened, but the next boom reassured me it had. The sky remained pitch black, if there was lightening, it never lit up the sky. It was just thunder, rain, and the thick feeling of humidity nearing 100%. And just as quickly as it came, it was over. Morning revealed blue skies, as if the calamity of the previous night hadn’t happened at all.
Category Archives: Central America
The Road to Guatemala
I’ve lost my sunglasses. Again. I always do this. For some reason, on trips it’s the one thing I continually misplace. I have yet to be pickpocketed, or leave my phone on a train, but evidentially I am incapable of maintaining possession of my sunglasses. My favorite ray-bans are currently somewhere in a sand dune in Peru. I don’t know why, but this greatly frustrates me, I don’t really bring pairs I’m super attached to, so the thought that my persols had foreven been lost was more of an inconvenience than anything else. But, I do feel as if by being so careless with them I’m somehow letting myself down as a traveler, that this is an indication of a lack of travel savvy. I was luckily, able to locate them, and retrieve them in San Ignacio on our way to Guatemala. I’m guessing this isn’t the first, or last time I’ll do something like this, or, perhaps get my laptop stuck in a safe in Cuzco. Worse things could happen while traveling, and I’m extremely lucky that this (and a few flight cancelations, and broken-down vehicles) have been the pinnacle of travel disruptions. So perhaps, this was my travel karma, and everything else will be perfectly smooth from now on, heres to hoping anyway!
Barton Creek Cave
According to the Maya, these caves, which extend 5 miles from the entrance were the bridge between this world, and the underworld (Xibala) where their gods lived. Rituals were often performed here, including (as one might expect with the Maya) human sacrifices. Bones and pottery are visible at a few places throughout the cave. Continue reading
Waterfalls, Thai Massages, and Housekeeping Ninjas
You wouldn’t know it’s the rainy season. Today, like yesterday has been absolutely perfect. Warm, but not hot, and comfortably humid. Of course, you never feel all that clean, but give it a day and you cease to notice. Whether or not this is a good thing, I’m not sure.
We woke up around eight, probably because we went to bed at, well…nine pm. After breakfast we were able to wander around the complex. Complex is best description. Though there are actually only a handful of villas/casitas the property is large enough that the walk from your room to the concierge takes a bit of time, and more than a few stairs. They have a horse stable, garden, pool, spa, two restaurants (which is good since we’re miles from anything), and a river. This must have been some summer home for Mr. Coppola before he converted it. But what I really like is how you don’t notice it, there’s no grandiose entrance or modern, shiny decor. The entrance is off the a small dirt road with a wooden sign indicating your arrival. The road to the lodge, about a quarter of a mile is lined with coconut trees, placed at perfect intervals. Everything about the lodge blends into the environment, from the bamboo vaulted ceilings to the earth tone decor. They also make a specific effort towards conservation. It may be a villa, but our only form of temperature control is an over head fan. We need flashlights at night since its so dark and electricity is used at a minimum, granted, there’s a IPod dock…which I was certainly surprised to see, but everything else, including our semi-outdoor (though thankfully with hot water) is certainly harmonious with its environment.



