Halong Bay. It is iconic Vietnam. I had been looking forward to kayaking through the labyrinth of soaring limestone cliffs ever since I knew I would be in southeast Asia. It was just as spectacular as I had hoped. Though the tourism in the area is a bit disappointing, in the way development tends to be, It was never the less very worthwhile.
Hanoi greeted us with cigarette smoke, rain, chaotic motorbikes threatening dismemberment, and the sweet fermented scent of beer drifting through the streets. We had made it to Vietnam.
Hanoi is the throbbing epicenter of the north, chaotic to say the least. Many find it overwhelming, but no one would deny that this city makes you feel alive. Even if that’s because crossing the street is often an adrenaline pumping affair of blind faith.
One last stomach-turning six hour trip through the mountains brought us back to Luang Prabang, a city we were not anticipating seeing again for many years. It felt good, to step foot back in a favorite city where no map was needed to navigate, it’s as close to a homecoming as we can get abroad.
Plus, we were granted a clear (well, mostly) day to visit the waterfalls we missed out on last time. It was well worth the wait, the clear weather allowed us to swim in the turquoise swimming holes and traverse the muddy terrain with mishap. That is, until it did rain. But we managed to beat it for the most part, and in the rainy season that’s about all you can hope for. At least we’re accepting rain does not assure a ruined day, it simply means you might have to wait under an overhang for a bit until it stops. Continue reading
Oh Vang Vieng, for all your natural beauty you’ve certainly developed a bad reputation of late. Just google the name and articles regarding the annual death and injury count are abundant. Even better youtube it. It’s a backpacker right of passage, to rent a tube and bob your way down the river. Not so bad, given the stunning scenery of impossibly high green saturated lime stone cliffs that make this a postcard perfect destination. But because it’s a developing country with limited regulations, and because some young backpackers have a inclination toward debauchery it has become something akin to a non stop rave. Enter a bar on “the island” and you’ll be handed two menus. One is the regular one, the other, your choice of illicit drug. Everything is available here. So you combine no regulations, cheap and plentiful beer and drugs, a river, and your bound to get more than a few injuries. Every year people die here. It’s a wonder it still exists. Locals, in an attempt to capitalize on their sleepy town turned frat party destination have erected zip lines, rope swings, diving platforms, and the appropriately named “slide of death.” Resulting in intoxicated teenagers and twenty something’s to plummet into shallow water where sharp rocks are plentiful. And then, there are bars all along the river offering free buckets of liquor, or food, or anything to keep you drunk and spending money. Every corner you can buy a tee shirt that indicates your survival, and “necessary” completion of this legendary activity.
Colliding With The Earth 