Day 25: Melide, 28km


Today was a good day. Last night at the albergue I met an American couple from LA, we had dinner together and walked together today. The trail varied from woods to roadside with almost no variation in altitude. The trail is incredibly busy, and while I miss the more solitary early trail, good company made today fly by. We’re overnighting in Melide, a “city” of 7,500, known for its pulpo (octopus), despite its inland location? So we posted up at the supposedly best Pulparia, order a giant plate, with potatoes and ample wine. For desert we ordered a house-made coffee liquore, off menu. The waiter was pleased, and offered us a round on the house. We left full, and happy.

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Day 24: Ventas de Narón, 31km

Bridge to Portomarin

Bridge to Portomarin

Last night I self-inflicted my first “injury.” And true to my nature it was not something that made sense. Not tendinitis, or blisters, or shin splints. No. You see for the first time, the snoring in my eight person room penetrated my sleep. There are always snorers. It is to be expected, and ideally tolerated since this is indeed shared space. But last night, five of the eight snored in the most obnoxious cacophony. The worst offender, as it seems to often be was a woman, who despite her best efforts could not inhale all of the oxygen in the room. I slept through a lot of it, but around 3:30 I unfortunately woke up and only fitfully slept from there. But what I also apparently did was subconsciously push my earplug into my left ear, so that when I fully woke up at 6:30 it was aching and I couldn’t hear well out of it. Eventually, it felt better, but still aches a bit. Hopefully, tonight, there will be less snoring? And that will be my only “injury.”

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Day 23: Barbadelo, 4 km


Since I’d already stayed in Sarria, I decided once I got off the train this evening around 6:30 I’d walk to the next town. Barbadelo, 4km away (or about a 45 min walk). It’s been several days since I’ve had a guide book, having lost it somewhere before the mountains. So I just followed the arrows. It’s so insanely well sign posted here a guidebook is definitely of questionable necessity.

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