Day 2: Zubiri, 21.9 km

Last night at dinner we had our first Pilgrim menu, three courses and wine for €10. The food was…about as good as you’d expect, and I think I’ll avoid it in the future. After dinner, the church held tours and a mass. I, along with my travelmates did neither. Instead, we want to a bar. It’s always good to find others who dislike doing the same things.

As for my first Camilo family, I’m currently traveling closely with three women, the two Canadians, Nieka and Olivia, and Aoife from Dublin as well as a slew of around twenty others. It’s a fantastic feeling to wander into a town and automatically spot friends.

 Today began at 6am when we were woken up by the hostel workers encouraging our awakening followed by hymnal music. For unknown reasons. But we started our hike in the misty morning dusk, following a much flatter road than yesterday. It was an easy morning, . We stopped to get cappuccinos and tortillas (Spanish omelets), and made our way through forests that could have been in Northern California. 

I walked with companions for most of the day. But after 15km walked alone, listening to music. Though I love the companionship, I felt like my legs were itching for speed. And so with music and solitude I found my pace and sailed along the path. I felt a flood of emotion I can only describe as unadulterated joy, coupled with pure freedom. I’ve read of others describing this, but honestly thought perhaps they were prone to hyperbole. But, I felt joy today like I cannot describe, and have rarely felt, a lightness really. Something that touches to the very core of human nature. Something I’ve only felt when being entirely present in a moment where truly, there was nothing on my mind. It is so incredible to have only the road ahead, and nothing but time, your mind is blank and at ease, having nothing else to occupy it. I can count the number of times I felt this sense of euphoria on one hand. 


After we arrived and checked into our private hostel (only eight beds in our dorm! Clean showers! wifi!) we wandered, naturally to a bar where we sat and chatted for hours with new friends. We had grandiose plans, almost none of which were accomplished. We moved from drinks to dinner, to bed. It was an astoundingly good day. And while my body aches a bit in this initial phase I’m feeling strong and capable! On to Pamplona!

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