This morning, we woke up to heavy rains. It is after all, the rainy season, but we’ve been lucky in avoiding it for the most part. Over french toast (!) and coffee, watching the rain puddle in large mounds around the beach, we discussed how we might get out. The trouble with these “off the beaten track” places is aside from being arduous to get to, can be near impossible if the rains wash out the roads. Luckily, a taxi driver was there already, and willing to take us. We got to Agona junction, and realized, we didn’t have enough cash to last us through the weekend, the “Kumasi Tro Situation” caused a bit of an unexpected dent. The problem was, the nearest ATM was 30km in the opposite direction. Axim, our next destination was 40km west of where we were, the ATM was 30km east, no one takes credit cards, not even most upmarket hotels. And so we set off to Takoradi to get find a barclays, at least the rain had stopped. It ended up not being much of an ordeal, or if it was we didn’t notice, nothing compares to Wednesday.
We had debated, briefly not trekking this far west, not far from the Ivory Coast border, but once we stepped onto the grounds at Loumoon, it was easily worth it. The guidebook says it occupies the most perfect beach in Ghana. It may not be the white sands and turquoise waters we’ve come to expect from tropical locations, but to us, it is perfect. Our room has a sweeping panoramic view of the sea, with floor to ceiling windows, a wrap-around balcony, and hot water. It might as well have been the most luxurious place we’ve ever been. At face value the lodge isn’t even remotely close to say, St. Lucia, but our perspective has been warped by the last five weeks, and we mused how nice it would be to always be so impressed by small luxuries.
We had lunch and wandered down to the private beach, much more calm than the previous location. The sand is thick, though soft it leaves your feet looking as if they’ve been dunked in raw sugar. The water, is most clear we’ve seen, though much colder it’s still surprisingly warm for an ocean. We managed a quick swim, shower and retreat to the lodge for tea when the rain picked up again. Though not ideal, there is something exceptionally cozy about sitting in the warmth and safety of an open-air lodge watching the rain, with nowhere else to be. Hot tea and wandering to the kitchen for bread, raw honey, and jam passed our afternoon. Near sundown, which here, is promptly around 6pm, we wandered to the nearby rock-cliff where Alex went “crabbing” and I was sprayed by sea water cascading over the boulders. Generally uneventful, the best sort of day here we’re finding.
It’s incredible to think that in a few short days we’ll be flying home. The last five weeks have flown by faster than any other trip I’ve taken. I’m not sure why, it isn’t as if we haven’t had days that passed unmercifully slow and we struggled to remember that we were, actually, having a good time. But most days were good, and days like today, near perfect. I am ready to go home, harsh travel has saved me the awful sinking feeling of return. Of reality involving applications, and exams, and thinking about the future. Though at least I know that as I get older these “reality suspending” trips can become more and more a real part of my life. Even through all the trials, I would suffer them again in a heartbeat, because at least then I’m doing what I love most, and what I would sacrifice most luxuries in life for: travel.
It has been an incredible adventure.