Luang Prabang in Monsoon

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We narrowly escaped another downpour. And by downpour, I mean a thick, blanketing, vision obscuring, cacophonous affair that would render you soaked before you could take a step towards safety.
We were supposed to go to a waterfall today, and while it’s slightly disappointing we wont have such an opportunity, sitting inside a cafe drinking thick, dark Lao coffee and watching temples in the distance disappear behind a veil of rain isn’t so bad either. This is monsoon, after all. In exchange for lower prices and less tourists we must accept the occasional sequestering to cafes and disrupted plans. There will be many more waterfalls to be seen.

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The Slow Boat Down the Mekong

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A minivan took us speeding from the sprawl of Chiang Mai towards the border of Laos. As we left the bustling city behind, the flat land gave way to craggling limestone cliffs buffered by lime saturated rice paddies. As if time itself had come to an abrupt stop the farmers plowing the fields, or walking the road moved languidly through the air, as if it had suddenly become viscous and it was all they could do to push their limbs through the medium at a staggeringly slow pace. It was clear, we were no longer in the city.

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Bagan to Chiang Mai

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Our second to last night in Burma found us back on an overnight bus. This one did not breakdown. We almost wish it had. We arrived in Yangon at the too early/too late hour of 4am. When our previous bus broke down we arrived at a far more reasonable hour. After the most frightening taxi ride either of us had ever experienced we arrived at our hostel, where not surprisingly, our room would not be ready. We were allowed to sleep in the dorm though, and felt lucky to have found a bed in general. It was the beginning to our trip to Chiang Mai. Though Bagan is actually much closer to Chiang Mai we would have to back track through Bangkok given the uncertainty of land borders.

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A Weekend in Bangkok

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Before traveling to Bangkok I had heard I would either love it or hate it. My brief stay here has led me to the general conclusion that I like it. I don’t love it, though I certainly could see living here for a few years, as it feels strangely similar to New York, as I write I’m in Lumphini Park, which could easily be central park if you took away the palm trees and water monsters. It’s another big city, and aside from the oppressive heat, it really feels like home. Siam center in basically Beverly Hills indoors. And when I lived in Brooklyn and Pasadena much time was spent in neighborhoods where English was non existent and ordering was based on pointing. Food wise, Bangkok does not disappoint, from cheap street meals to local jaunts for fried chicken (Soi Polo fried chicken) to Pad Thai (Thip Samai), nearly everything we’ve eaten has been delicious, and for the most part ridiculously cheap-fried chicken, papaya salad and rice for two: $4.50. The benefit of our incessant food tourism has been two fold, first, we’ve eaten fantastically, and cond our wanderings in search of perfect pad thai has brought us through nearly every neighborhood in Bangkok. Plus, It’s hard to imagine being food homesick here, though it’s reassuring to know if I really needed a wood fired pizza, I could get one. Though Bangkok to many merely represents westernization, and therefore holds little interest, It is admittedly a nice to feel at home for a few days, to go to the movies (in a nicer theater than I’ve ever been in before), pick up necessities, and easily navigate public transport, in high air conditioned fashion. There are of course, things I don’t like about Bangkok, just like any major metropolitan city, and to be honest Khao San is pretty gross, but overall it’s an easy way to ease into south east asia. Plus anywhere that can feed me this well, for this cheap, will always win in my book.
Today we head to the airport, for a week in Burma!

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