Vang Vieng for the Non Party Goer

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Oh Vang Vieng, for all your natural beauty you’ve certainly developed a bad reputation of late. Just google the name and articles regarding the annual death and injury count are abundant. Even better youtube it. It’s a backpacker right of passage, to rent a tube and bob your way down the river. Not so bad, given the stunning scenery of impossibly high green saturated lime stone cliffs that make this a postcard perfect destination. But because it’s a developing country with limited regulations, and because some young backpackers have a inclination toward debauchery it has become something akin to a non stop rave. Enter a bar on “the island” and you’ll be handed two menus. One is the regular one, the other, your choice of illicit drug. Everything is available here. So you combine no regulations, cheap and plentiful beer and drugs, a river, and your bound to get more than a few injuries. Every year people die here. It’s a wonder it still exists. Locals, in an attempt to capitalize on their sleepy town turned frat party destination have erected zip lines, rope swings, diving platforms, and the appropriately named “slide of death.” Resulting in intoxicated teenagers and twenty something’s to plummet into shallow water where sharp rocks are plentiful. And then, there are bars all along the river offering free buckets of liquor, or food, or anything to keep you drunk and spending money. Every corner you can buy a tee shirt that indicates your survival, and “necessary” completion of this legendary activity.

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Luang Prabang in Monsoon

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We narrowly escaped another downpour. And by downpour, I mean a thick, blanketing, vision obscuring, cacophonous affair that would render you soaked before you could take a step towards safety.
We were supposed to go to a waterfall today, and while it’s slightly disappointing we wont have such an opportunity, sitting inside a cafe drinking thick, dark Lao coffee and watching temples in the distance disappear behind a veil of rain isn’t so bad either. This is monsoon, after all. In exchange for lower prices and less tourists we must accept the occasional sequestering to cafes and disrupted plans. There will be many more waterfalls to be seen.

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The Slow Boat Down the Mekong

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A minivan took us speeding from the sprawl of Chiang Mai towards the border of Laos. As we left the bustling city behind, the flat land gave way to craggling limestone cliffs buffered by lime saturated rice paddies. As if time itself had come to an abrupt stop the farmers plowing the fields, or walking the road moved languidly through the air, as if it had suddenly become viscous and it was all they could do to push their limbs through the medium at a staggeringly slow pace. It was clear, we were no longer in the city.

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Chiang Mai and the Two Month Mark.

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Thunder is clapping above us, the dusk brings dark ominous clouds dripping rain and pushing us inside. I sit and watch the sidewalk darken, feeling the ricochet of water droplets against my ankles. As I have time to slow down I realize, today marks the two month point. Not the longest I’ve been away, but certainly the longest I’ve been constantly on the move. It feels as if I’ve been away for forever, or perhaps not at all. It’s hard to imagine life stationary, and despite the constant movement I don’t feel the need to slow down or settle down in one place. The excitement of constant newness is addictive. Everyday is new and exciting, full of possible adventures and discoveries; it’s intoxicating really. Continue reading